I have been waiting for a fax for the last three days to be sent from WCS at Bogor to immigration here. They want a copy of the id card and signed letter from Ibu Yani (my scientific counterpart) saying that she is my sponsor. But, really a different office (Ristek) is supposed to be my sponsor for immigration purposes. Of course, when the immigration officer called that office they said oh no we are not her sponsor, it is Ibu Yani and Universitas Indonesia. Everyday I return to immigration and wait there for several hours, but still this fax has not come. Then, today I discovered that WCS staff had tried to send it, but it could not go through seeing as the power and therefore fax machine is not functional at immigration today. Grrrrr. It is really fitting that to describe something not working or not on you say that it is "mati," which means "dead," because I feel like I have been stopped dead in my tracks. I have already been here (Lampung) for a week and made almost no progress at all.
I exerted a lot of energy today and got absolutely nothing out of it, so I am a bit frustrated at the moment. I spent the morning (about 3 hours plus part of yesterday) riding Angkots (little, converted minivans used for cheap public transportation across Indonesia that are really more like clown cars for a giant American like me) from bank to bank trying to exchange my travelers checks for cash. When I finally found one that would do it, they said that they would have to copy and examine several pages from my passport. I was prepared with photocopies of my passport and visa, as well as three other forms of id, but this just was not good enough. I would have been happy to let them make copies from my original passport, but of course immigration still has it, so no dice. I hoped to finish with immigration today and retrieve my passport, but as I already explained that too was unsuccessful. I know that there is nothing else I can do to speed this up, but I really hate losing a month of my allotted 12 just hanging out in offices and hotel rooms.
Sunday, April 13, 2008
In Lampung: Mar 10, 2008 (immigration woes)
I had a jolly good time at immigration today. I had to fill out all of these forms (which of course I had to buy...and the spiffy folder they came in), but then they turned out to be 6 different versions of the same thing, some in Indonesian and some in English. I decided to fill them all out. It really made no sense to write my name, passport info, visa info, birth date and place, nationality over and over again, but of course I did it anyway. Then the immigration officer, who had no idea that there was a huge national park in his province or that orangutans had not lived there for more than 10,000 years, insisted that my sponsor (the head of the research office in Jakarta) had to be there with me to sign this official letter. (It is official only when it has the special government stamp that of course I get to provide.) I explained that I had a letter in lieu of this other one from my sponsor’s office and that obviously he cannot come to the local immigration in Lampung office since he works in Jakarta. This partially worked and he agreed to call for confirmation and then, maybe, fax the letter to my sponsor to sign. They also went ahead and photographed me (on a velvety red background) and fingerprinted me. The fingerprinting was ridiculously thorough. I have never been arrested, but I did not know it would be quite so strange to have someone grasp your hand and firmly roll each inky digit across the paper and then redip your whole hand and slap that down on the paper as well. They then repeated with my left hand. It was like being born all over again, but in Indonesia. Actually, I think it is to have a record of me in case I become a criminal or die or something. The officer also mentioned something about the embassy, so maybe (in theory) they send them a copy. (They made two.) I also had to fill out my personal information on the other side of each fingerprinting card. I thought it was interesting that they asked for each of my parent's name, address, and date of birth, but then only asked for my wife's information, as though a female could not possibly be applying to live here alone. Well, at the end of all that I still have the pleasure of returning tomorrow in hopes of getting to pay around $70 and getting my KITAS (stay permit) for this year. Then, I just have to go to the governor's office and maybe the local police as well for more fun. Then there is the head of the parks office just outside the forest before I can finally escape.
In Jakarta: Mar 5, 2008 (hidden razors)
Yes, things are looking up here. I just (finally) finished the last step in the Jakarta permits procedure. Everything looks good; it says that I can live in the park until Feb. 25th 2009, which is also when I will have to leave Indonesia anyhow. I also chatted with some of the noisy nurses the other night when the power went out. They were very excited that I could speak Indonesian and all wanted me to come visit them in their hometown in South Sulawesi. They are all midwives as it turns out, here to do a 2 week class on becoming better midwives. I also managed to cut my finger open when I was rummaging through my bag in the dark, trying to find my flashlight by feel. Instead I found an open razor. Nothing serious of course, but still convenient.
In Jakarta: Mar 4, 2008 (Tiny X-large)
I went back to the fun forestry office today. Since they told me on Friday that getting my SIMAKSI on Friday "tidak bisa" (not possible) getting it on Monday "tidak bisa" and getting it today was "mungkin" (maybe) possible, I figured I could give it a shot. At least they seemed happier to see me today, although they had completely forgotten ever seeing me last week. We chatted pleasantly for a while and they commented on how "cantik" I was not to be married and not to have a thousand kids. But then they said that the boss would be in a meeting for an indeterminately long time (maybe 8:00 am, no 9:00 am until 5:00 pm), so it seemed hopeless to wait. I sucked it up and decided to return first thing in the morning. This of course probably destroys my chances to leave for Lampung tomorrow and, in turn to go to Kota Agung this weekend. It looks like it might be almost another week before I see forest. By then I will probably forgotten what the hell I came here for anyway. Nothing new...probably all part of their master plan.
Oh, I forgot to mention that the laundry service has decided to hold my dirty clothes hostage. I gave them to the homestay staff 5 or 6 days ago, but only after a special request I may get them by tomorrow morning. Maybe they were mesmerized by the enormity of my pants. In any case, I broke down and tried to shop for clothes yesterday. (I had been wearing the same thing for a few days and was less than flowery.) I soon discovered that Large = X-small and X-large = small, so if you lose a fee pounds you might be able to squeeze into a large. I finally found some X-large shirts that were more like mediums and made of stretchy enough cotton that I could make them work. They are very snazzy fake Polo shirts. I bought two to wear with my patched field pants, a nice affect I am sure you can imagine. I am pretty sure that I look like a German tourist now. I also realized that most of the westerners that I see in Indonesia are pretty damn homely, like the rejects of Europe. Maybe they figure they have a better chance with a nice, young Indonesian man or woman desperate for children with large noses and pasty skin.
Oh, I forgot to mention that the laundry service has decided to hold my dirty clothes hostage. I gave them to the homestay staff 5 or 6 days ago, but only after a special request I may get them by tomorrow morning. Maybe they were mesmerized by the enormity of my pants. In any case, I broke down and tried to shop for clothes yesterday. (I had been wearing the same thing for a few days and was less than flowery.) I soon discovered that Large = X-small and X-large = small, so if you lose a fee pounds you might be able to squeeze into a large. I finally found some X-large shirts that were more like mediums and made of stretchy enough cotton that I could make them work. They are very snazzy fake Polo shirts. I bought two to wear with my patched field pants, a nice affect I am sure you can imagine. I am pretty sure that I look like a German tourist now. I also realized that most of the westerners that I see in Indonesia are pretty damn homely, like the rejects of Europe. Maybe they figure they have a better chance with a nice, young Indonesian man or woman desperate for children with large noses and pasty skin.
In Jakarta: Mar. 3, 2008 (sickness and demons)
I spent the weekend feeling lousy. I must have eaten something that my body decided to reject under the label of "not food...proceed with caution." You know I have been sick at least once every time I have been to Indonesia. But really what would week one in Jakarta be without a touch of dysentary. I am taking the last of my Cipro (expired of course), so I should be fine. I basically just did not eat anything for 24 hours and tried to ignore the insanely loud group of female nurses staying at the old homestay over the weekend. They very cordially woke me up this morning with riotous giggling and group showering (I think) at 5 am. One of them also walked into my room the other day (I thought the door was locked but these old locks are tricky) when I was in a let's just say akward position over the toilet. Lovely. I am hoping that I will get my clothes back later tonight. I gave them to the cleaning lady on Thursday, but I did not realize it would be so long until I got them back. I have nothing clean left and would rather avoid the whole "do you have anything big enough to fit giants here" conversation at the department store. At least I am starting to really understand central Jakarta.
I did go to the Javanese theater though on Saturday. It was pretty darn cool, but longer than I expected (almost 4 hours) and my contacts did not appreciate the smoke. Also, the whole thing was in high Javanese, so I could not understand the words. I liked the dancing best, especially the demons (which looked like Rastafarian mandrills) and hanuman the white monkey.
I did go to the Javanese theater though on Saturday. It was pretty darn cool, but longer than I expected (almost 4 hours) and my contacts did not appreciate the smoke. Also, the whole thing was in high Javanese, so I could not understand the words. I liked the dancing best, especially the demons (which looked like Rastafarian mandrills) and hanuman the white monkey.
In Jakarta: Feb. 28, 2008 (Of movie theaters and Big Macs)
I met with Fitri at the super fancy MacDonald’s yesterday. It was very nice to see her face to face after all of this time. We get along very well and we made lots of possible plans for the future. I did nearly drown (don't worry, not really) on the way there though. It has been raining like crazy here every afternoon, bur I am too determined and cheap to take a taxi when I can walk somewhere. Of course when we were scheduled to meet it was raining the hardest yet, but I had to go since she had a letter for me to give to forestry and she was leaving for Malaysia the next day. I started out alright, pants rolled up, dodging the deepest puddles and hoping not to get drenched by passing cars on a way-too narrow street. But then I started running out of non-flooded options. I was proud to make one slightly harrowing leap over a drainage canal. Eventually a man running as food stall flagged me down and kindly forced me to wait for the rain to stop and to drink some (te manis) hot sweet tea. He would not even let me pay and we chatted for a while, so it was not awkward.
The new research permit office does live up to the old one's standards. In some ways they have exceeded them; instead of asking for copies they just scan everything, they email promptly, and everyone is young and happy (at least for the moment). They also gave me a new and very spiffy research permit ID with (yes that's right) a lovely red-background photo of myself. The only problem I have had is that the boss was not in until 2 pm on Tuesday, so I lost a precious day from the week and have to get an extension from immigration since I will not make it to Lampung in the 7 days they gave me at the airport. I was hoping to finish up at PHKA on Monday, but when I dropped everything off yesterday they said "maybe Tuesday" and (of course) to call. They also refused to write down my number. I am pretty sure that it ticks them off even more when you know their system and have everything ready. That is probably how more steps are added. It is clearly an evolutionary arms race...what do you think, is there a paper here?
At the immigration office (to which the taxi driver had to stop and ask for directions 4 times), I saw another westerner and felt that I had to stop and say hi. He was a nice cultural anthropologist from Stanford named Bart. We shared a taxi and talked anthropological theory on the way back to central Jakarta. We both had not eaten lunch yet, so we went to a noodle place in the super fancy Plaza Indonesia mall. He felt it was his duty to show me around. We looked at the movie theater, which was pretty crazy. There are too levels, like classes on planes. The fancier "Prestige" class has its own special entrance, fully reclining leather seats with massage and center compartments with blankets, and a full bar. The cheaper (about $2.80 USD) theaters also have large reclining seats with tons of leg room and a bigger screen and better sound than in the US. Of course, I did not actually watch a movie there, but the tour was interesting. I am more of a pirated DVDs on the street kind of girl.
The new research permit office does live up to the old one's standards. In some ways they have exceeded them; instead of asking for copies they just scan everything, they email promptly, and everyone is young and happy (at least for the moment). They also gave me a new and very spiffy research permit ID with (yes that's right) a lovely red-background photo of myself. The only problem I have had is that the boss was not in until 2 pm on Tuesday, so I lost a precious day from the week and have to get an extension from immigration since I will not make it to Lampung in the 7 days they gave me at the airport. I was hoping to finish up at PHKA on Monday, but when I dropped everything off yesterday they said "maybe Tuesday" and (of course) to call. They also refused to write down my number. I am pretty sure that it ticks them off even more when you know their system and have everything ready. That is probably how more steps are added. It is clearly an evolutionary arms race...what do you think, is there a paper here?
At the immigration office (to which the taxi driver had to stop and ask for directions 4 times), I saw another westerner and felt that I had to stop and say hi. He was a nice cultural anthropologist from Stanford named Bart. We shared a taxi and talked anthropological theory on the way back to central Jakarta. We both had not eaten lunch yet, so we went to a noodle place in the super fancy Plaza Indonesia mall. He felt it was his duty to show me around. We looked at the movie theater, which was pretty crazy. There are too levels, like classes on planes. The fancier "Prestige" class has its own special entrance, fully reclining leather seats with massage and center compartments with blankets, and a full bar. The cheaper (about $2.80 USD) theaters also have large reclining seats with tons of leg room and a bigger screen and better sound than in the US. Of course, I did not actually watch a movie there, but the tour was interesting. I am more of a pirated DVDs on the street kind of girl.
My arrival: Feb. 26 - 27 2008
Note: Sorry to post these so late, but I am trying to catch up and to be fair my computer has been dead for the past week.
I made it safely to Jakarta yesterday. I decided to stay in a different home stay in central Jakarta, but still nearby Jalan Jaksa. It is much quieter and, amazingly enough, only a short walk from the new research permit office. Heather will understand that this is a nice improvement from the old LIPI office, and it saves me a taxi trip. Also, it is the old home of the governor of Jakarta, which makes it an interesting place to stay, full of old photos and paintings of the family, intricate Javan woodwork, a two-story fountain, and traditional Javan bamboo instruments. Unfortunately, I have to wait until later this afternoon for the boss of the new office to come to work and sign my letter. Because of this delay, I will not be able to proceed to step two (the national police office) and may have to get an extension from immigration if I cannot make it to Lampung by Monday.
A homestay is probably just a nice word for a small, slightly shabby hotel where you get to live side-by-side with the owners. But, really you also get breakfast every morning (complete with a little American flag at my place setting) and it is a family run place. I am going to meet with my friend Fitri later today about getting the necessary permission (in addition to everything else) to take plant samples out of the forest. It should be a good time. It also looks likely that I will have to be in Jakarta a few days longer than I had hoped because of the one day delay from the new office yesterday. I have to be in Lampung by Monday to go to immigration, but that probably will not work out unless I kick total ass at the offices today and tomorrow. That means that I get to go to immigration in Jakarta with a letter from the research permit office to get a one week extension to immigrate. Unfortunately, immigration in Jakarta is by far the worst, most Kafka-esque office I have been to so far in Indonesia. Good times, good times.
I made it safely to Jakarta yesterday. I decided to stay in a different home stay in central Jakarta, but still nearby Jalan Jaksa. It is much quieter and, amazingly enough, only a short walk from the new research permit office. Heather will understand that this is a nice improvement from the old LIPI office, and it saves me a taxi trip. Also, it is the old home of the governor of Jakarta, which makes it an interesting place to stay, full of old photos and paintings of the family, intricate Javan woodwork, a two-story fountain, and traditional Javan bamboo instruments. Unfortunately, I have to wait until later this afternoon for the boss of the new office to come to work and sign my letter. Because of this delay, I will not be able to proceed to step two (the national police office) and may have to get an extension from immigration if I cannot make it to Lampung by Monday.
A homestay is probably just a nice word for a small, slightly shabby hotel where you get to live side-by-side with the owners. But, really you also get breakfast every morning (complete with a little American flag at my place setting) and it is a family run place. I am going to meet with my friend Fitri later today about getting the necessary permission (in addition to everything else) to take plant samples out of the forest. It should be a good time. It also looks likely that I will have to be in Jakarta a few days longer than I had hoped because of the one day delay from the new office yesterday. I have to be in Lampung by Monday to go to immigration, but that probably will not work out unless I kick total ass at the offices today and tomorrow. That means that I get to go to immigration in Jakarta with a letter from the research permit office to get a one week extension to immigrate. Unfortunately, immigration in Jakarta is by far the worst, most Kafka-esque office I have been to so far in Indonesia. Good times, good times.
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